Day Three – Montacute House

Day three started with a short walk through Castle Combe (which is a small village not a castle) after breakfast. The village is quaint with just a few streets, the church and the old manor home which is our hotel. In other words you could walk end to end and all around in 15 minutes. There are some trails that take you out through the woods but I have yet to venture off on those. It was a little cool and cloudy this morning but no rain.

After our walk, Alison gave a talk about Anne Boleyn. She discussed that the six wives novels were based on the new information uncovered since her nonfiction book on the topic back in the 90s. She also attributed a relook of Anne to Sarah Gristwood’s “The Game of Queens” which argued that Anne had learned European views while at the French court. Those of in the book club will remember reading that book back in 2017 before my first Alison Weir tour. Anyway it was interesting to hear even someone as well versed in this topic continues to learn from others.

After the talk we headed off to Montacute. It is a “cute” little town but we didn’t see much of it. We had lunch at the King’s Arm Inn, an elaborate 3 course meal finished off by a dark chocolate brownie. Then it was off to the see Montacute House. We did stop in the church for a quick view of a few of the tombs of the prior home owners. The tombs showed the progression of carving skills or demonstrated that the later generation hired a better artist.

The House itself was quite grand. It was built at the end of the Tudor period from 1595-1601. It was never a fortified manor or castle just a great estate for a wealthy lawyer. It cost more to build in the 15th century then it cost to buy in the 1920s. Surprisingly a third of the exterior was glass. Small little diamond panes but huge glass windows on all floors. The house was built by Edward Philips who was a lawyer that helped in the prosecution of Guy Fawkes and was knighted for his service. To impress the nobles the house was built to impress with grand gardens and approaches. The tree lined grass approach to the house was used in PBS’ Wulfhall for the opening scene, interior was used for several other shots as well.

The long hall on the top floor (and I do mean long -52 meters long) house a gallery on loan from the National Portrait Gallery so we got to see some contemporary paintings of Henry, Elizabeth, Katherine Parr, Edward and James. There was also one stated to be formerly known as Mary Queen of Scott’s that Alison thought was more likely a younger Queen Elizabeth. She could identify the paintings and who they were by the clothing and style so it was nice to walk through with her and have her explain little details I would have never noticed.

The rest of the house was nice and showed appropriate pieces from the period with a few special pieces under glass. They also had a Sampler collection that was quite impressive from the 1600s. I knew those were done in the last few centuries but had no idea they went back that far.

The grounds were extensive and formal. There were well manicured lawns and trimmed yew hedges. However there were also some hedges they called wiggly piggly and you will be able to pick that out in the photos. The wisteria was in bloom and everything smelled lovely. Overall a lovely day.

Montacute House
15th Century Samplers
Looking out at gate house
Fragment of a large 1480 tapestry. Actually quite a large piece covered most of one wall but was only 5% of the total piece.
Drive used in Wulfhall
Main gate house
Montacute church
Church
Door to the church

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