Today we had to start out early to make the tide so we could drive across to Holy island. This is where St. Cuthbert and St. Aidan brought Christianity to England. As Julian says Cuthbert gets more of the credit but he was basically a hermit who dealt with the administration of the abbey where Aidan did the outreach. But Cuthbert has been the hero for centuries and likely no changing it now.

It was a long drive but we had several talks both about life Lindisfarne Priory and Flodden field which is a later stop this afternoon.

Our first stop once on the island was the Priory. Of course it is in ruins like every other priory/ monastery or convent in England (unless converted to the local church like in Hexham). The church was right next door so I guess they didn’t need another one. This priory was set up for pilgrimages so it had a large outer vault great hall that was used before entering the refectory. There are also some design styles that are repeated from Durham. The zigzag pattern up the columns which I thought was strange for a church.

There is one incredible arch that still survives in the ruins that is called the rainbow arch. Not sure how it is still up but it made me a little nervous to be under it.

There was also a museum that had some of the illuminations from the gospels done by the monks at Lindisfarne but sadly no pictures. I bought a book so I might add some later.

There is also castle on the island that sets up on a large promontory. It looks quite impressive from the town but the closer you get to it,not so much. Quite impressive of how they got all the stone up there but it is just a big block. The English added defenses to it during WWII so there is really no hope for it now. We walked up to the bottom of the hill before deciding it wasn’t worth it to go any further. I do wish we had gone over to the walled garden but we missed that.

The trek up to the castle took us over the beach and through the fishing port where enterprising fishermen have turned their old boats into homes.

I did get to try some mead while we were on the island. It wasn’t bad but I prefer the gin. Sadly they were not tasting that. Rum seems to be a big alcohol in this area. The hotel served us rum punch when we arrived and the mead place also had rums out to try. I don’t associate England with rum but I guess they like it.

After we said goodbye to Lindisfarne and the holy island we headed out to The Black Bull pub for lunch. It is now me of the few thatched pups left in England. We just had simple sandwiches and a drink before walking down to Etal Castle. It to is in ruins and was a pretty simple castle to begin with. Julian gave us a bit of a tour and talked about life out in the border marches where the reivers and raiders made for a dangerous life. This castle is also close to Flodden field so it held some of the capture Scottish artillery before they could move it down to London.

The next stop was Lady Waterford Hall which is an old school where lady Waterford painting murals around the classroom. This might seem like an odd stop for this day but it was very close to a church that sets up on a hill overlooking the fields where the battle of Flodden was fought. Anyway Lady Waterford was a widow who had no children and loved to paint. She did all the murals herself and used towns people as her models. It was quite beautiful in a simple kind of way.

From here we walked up to the parish church overlooking the field. I think this church had more gravestones than I have seen at a church before. They were everywhere. There were also some stone grave markers inside the church that date to the 14/15 century.

Back on the bus to head over to the battle site. Unlike Culloden or even Bannonbrock, there is nothing at Flodden field. The English have set up nothing. Supposedly a local (a friend of Julian’s) bought an old red telephone booth and set up some flyers and explanation sheets in it. He also put up the two guide signs that we saw. But basically Flodden is just an empty field for cows, sheep or crops with a memorial statute up on the high ground. Julian walked us through the battle desribibg how King James IV felt the need to lead from the front instead of dictating safely from the back. In doing this is also meant all the nobles had to fight in the front lines. No one seemed to be trained in using the new pike weapons so they proved to be ineffectual. Although the Scots out numbered the English at least 2 to 1 they did not carry the day. Not only did King James not survive the battle but a lot of the noblemen also perished in the battle. Julian set up the scene and acted out the use of the weapons. It was lively discussion out on a path between two fields. I think we scared the sheep.

We weren’t too far off from being there on the actual date of the battle. the battle took place on September 9, 1513. King James was the last monarch of Great Britain to die in battle.

After the visit to the battle site we headed back to the hotel for a night in our own. Val and I had dinner in the casual club house restaurant. I had the fish and chips which was good but I need to remember that I can eat something other than fish and chips in England. Something makes me think when I’m in England I have to eat the fish and chips or the steak and ale pies when what I really want is a hamburger.

Also I am quite proud of myself for catching back up on my posting. Hopefully I can stay on top of it the rest of the trip.